Sand Valley Golf


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FOOD 42 | 43 sand valley Playing chicken B y that standard, the roast chicken at Sand Valley is the culinary version of a top-ranked course. The birds are pasture-raised at a property called Ninepatch, a family farm some 70 miles away, where no herbicides, pesticides, hormones, or antibiotics are used on the land or in the livestock. The chickens feed on grass and grain, and, when their times comes, they're processed and cleaned with nothing but water, unlike a lot of poultry, which gets blanched with bleach. "people who try one for the first time will tell me, 'I haven't had a chicken that good since Grandma chopped its head off on the back porch," says Ninepatch proprietor, Craig Carlson, an amiable man with a Wilford Brimley mustache to match his folksy manner. Every Tuesday morning, Carlson delivers a small truckload of chickens to Sand Valley himself, 24 in total. Chef Simons debones and brines the birds, then sets them on a grill, pressed under a brick, so that their meat stays moist and their skin turns crisp and golden. He plates them in a pool of their own finger- licking juices. Call it chicken as it was meant to be. "I'm afraid to take them off the menu," Simons says. "I worry there might be a revolt." Sand Valley has chickens of its own as well. A gaggle of them reside in a wooden coop, laying a steady supply of eggs, which the kitchens turns to omelets, breakfast sandwiches, and more. In a fitting bit of symmetry, the chick- ens often dine on kitchen scraps. —chickens roaming aldo's community garden and aldo's farm to table ready for a full house

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